Los Angeles Times - Dec 2004

Los Angeles Times /Food Section

December 15th, 2004

Dulce de Lovely

Thanks to a Los Angeles entrepreneur with a yen for just the right cookies to accompany his microroasted Nicaraguan coffee, it 's now possible to get an alfajores fix without heading for the Southern Hemisphere. These little cookies - typically dulce de leche sandwiched between tiny shortbread wafers, then dusted with powder sugar - originated in Spain and proliferated in the kitchens of colonial South America. They are little mouthfuls of heaven, sweet and crispy and silky at once. Curiously, until now they have been woefully difficult to find in Los Angeles. Enter Roger Navas-Balladares, who co-owns and operates Split Bean Coffee in Van Nuys. He bakes these addictive gems for online customers, offering the traditional variety, as well as versions with raspberry and guava filling, and the Alfajor Americano, peanut butter-filled and chocolate dipped. There are also a selection of fine Nicaraguan coffees which complement the cookies perfectly. So leave a plateful out for the man in red, if they last that long.

Wes Bausmith

Los Angeles Times Food Section/December 15th, 2004